31 May 1923 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk

Another sunless day + the same N.E. wind. Breakfasted7.45 + left at 8.45 cycling via Warden to the Hexham – Carlisle road : turned to the left before Haydon Bridge + shortly after took a side road by mistake which took me through gates.1 It cost me fully a mile extra + I missed Langley Castle. At Staward Station2 there is the most magnificent view down into the Allen with lovely wooded crags. The colouring of the budding oaks + other trees was surpassing. Very steep descent to Cupola Bridge with 3 hairpin turns.3 Then past Whitfield4 + after that a steady pull of 3 or 4 miles to the Cumberland March + down to Alston.5 It was fair day + a cattle sale. Got a “ham tea” between 12 + 1 in cosy little parlour + then mounted over [?] Hartside Cross6 another four miles steady rise but all rideable. Awfully rough + steep descent to Renwick7 (1889 to 740 [feet] in 4½ miles) then a run along the foot of hills through [illegible] villages past Talkin Tarn to Naworth. Then against the wind + many hills to Greenhead (W. & S.), Haltwhistle, Haydon Bridge + here. 77.15 miles. After Hartside X [Cross] splendid views of Lake Mountains : Solway : Criffel, [illegible] + a high hill beyond. Had Dinner + hot bath. Pretty tired.

1 Presumably Dr Muir has taken the left turn at grid reference NGR NY848,640 going past Threepwood instead of straight on up the A686 past Langley.

2 Staward Station, NY806,596.

3 The road travels a series of hairpins as it loses height quite dramatically (perhaps 110m) from Staward Station to reach Cupola Bridge at NY800,591.

4 Whitfield, area of NY776,563.

5 Alston, NY717,465.

6 Hartside Cross viewpoint is at NY646,418.

7 From Hartside Cross Dr Muir has dropped westwards off the main road, losing 350 or so metres to reach Renwick at NY597,434 before heading northwards towards Talkin Tarn, NY545,587, Naworth, area of NY559,625, Greenhead, NY659,654, and back to Chollerford along the main roads.

[Source: Scottish Borders Archives & Local History Service SBA/657/26, Dr J S Muir of Selkirk, medical practitioner, journal for 1923]

30 May 1923 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk

A sunless day : wind still N. but very slight + consequently it didn’t feel so cold. Wrote Dora1 : Helen2, Andrew Wright3 (whose wife died on Sunday4) cycled to Haydon Bridge and Melkridge where I turned N. + came back by Stanegate + Newburgh.5 The valley of the S. Tyne is lovely + at one place the display of Myosotis, Endymia + Lychisis was as fine as I ever saw.6 By side roads I came to the camp of Vindolanda7 + travelled the Roman Road, Stanegate. The number of fine houses is wonderful + I noted where the Allen meets the Tyne.8 Got back at 4.20 very early for tea as I had nothing since breakfast. Ordered Hadrian’s Wall by Jessie Mothersole9 as a birthday present for Mrs Mack.10

1 Andrina Dorothy ‘Dora’ Muir (1882-1978), nurse and Dr Muir’s youngest daughter, was living and working in Egypt.

2 Helen Frances ‘Mousey’ Muir (1880-1963), Dr Muir’s third daughter and sometime housekeeper.

3 Assume Andrew Wright, tailor’s cutter, of 6a Clifton Road, Selkirk.

4 Isabella Wright née Johnstone (about 1874-1923), died 26 May 1923, aged 49, at 6a Clifton Road, Selkirk. She had been operated upon 5 January 1923, when Dr Graham went to Edinburgh to observe her surgery, and went home on 4 February 1923 when Dr Muir recorded her return from the Edinburgh [Royal?] Infirmary .

5 Haydon Bridge, grid reference NGR NY844,647, Melkridge, NY739,639, Stanegate, through NY831,680, and Newbrough, NY874,679.

6 Myosotis, flowering plants in the family Boraginaceae, Endymion or Hyacinthoides non-scripta and Lychnis or Lychnis chalcedonica.

7 Vindolanda is a Roman auxiliary fort south of Highshield Crags on Hadrian’s Wall, grid reference NY770,663.

8 The River Allen, travelling north, debouches into the River Tyne just east of Bardon Mill at NY801,647.

9 Hadrian’s Wall by Jessie Mothersole, see Dr Muir’s diary for 27 May 1923.

10 Agnes Mackintosh née Watson, formerly Harper (1859-1946), of Elm Park, Selkirk.

[Source: Scottish Borders Archives & Local History Service SBA/657/26, Dr J S Muir of Selkirk, medical practitioner, journal for 1923]

29 May 1923 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk

A much nicer day though still N.E. wind. Slight sunshine till 2 o’clock when it clouded over. Left at 9.15 + cycled to Hexham, Allendale Town, Allenhead, St John’s Chapel, Stanhope, Blanchland, Staley, Hexham + home.1 What a county for hills! Coming out of Stanhope it was like a mile + a half of the Old Bridge Road!2 Allendale is beautiful, very wild between Stanhope + Blanchland3 + the road in + out of the latter are precipitous! Got home at 7.50 having run 60.35 miles but it was equal to double that on our side of the border. Got dinner + a hot bath + read in bed.

1 Dr Muir has run south to Hexham and the Xxx before ascending to Allendale Town, NY838,559, Allenheads, NY860,453, St John’s Chapel, NY884,379, Stanhope, NY992,394, Blanchland, NY965,503, and Slaley, NY977,577.

2 Old Bridge Road, Selkirk, the very steep road which drops off Ettrick Terrace immediately opposite Halliday’s Park and hits Dunsdale Road near Forest Mill.

3 Assuming the Dr Muir took the direct route over Edmundbyers Common he was in very open country and skirted the 500 metre contour below Horsehoe Hill.

[Source: Scottish Borders Archives & Local History Service SBA/657/26, Dr J S Muir of Selkirk, medical practitioner, journal for 1923]

28 May 1923 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk

About the coldest day this month. Quite dry except a very slight drizzle in the morning + a most bitter N.E. wind + not a ray of sun. [word deleted] Got a wire from H.1 to say the party was coming. In forenoon walked down left bank of Tyne + saw the wonderful remains of the Roman Bridge.2 Gathered a bouquet of blue wild Hyacinths, Cowslips + Forget-Me-Not which I arranged on our table. Helen + Nancy3 with Mrs Mack4 + Miss Waugh5 arrived when I was in my room + Nancy, thinking I had gone to meet them, came to meet me. They came by Humshaugh instead of Barrasford.6 After lunch we saw the camp of Cilurnum7 + motored to the height beyond [illegible words].8 Came back to tea + they left about 6. I went as far as 5 Lane End9 + walked back.

1 Helen Frances ‘Mousey’ Muir (1880-1963), Dr Muir’s third daughter and sometime housekeeper.

2 Dr Muir has walked upstream on the south east bank of the River North Tyne and reached Chesters Bridge, the Roman bridge over the River North Tyne and very close to the Hadrian’s Wall fort of Cilurnum (Chesters).

3 Agnes Amelia ‘Nancy’ Roberts née Muir (1878-1948), Dr Muir’s second daughter.

4 Agnes Mackintosh née Watson, formerly Harper (1859-1946), of Elm Park, Selkirk.

5 Miss Waugh was Marion Gentleman Waugh (1877-), matron at Viewfield Nursing Home, Selkirk.

6 The route from the A68 to Chollerford via Humshaugh on the west of the River North Tyne is longer than the route via Barrasford lying on the east.

7 Chesters (Cilurnum or Cilurvum), on Hadrian’s Wall immediately E.S.E. of Corbridge, is most complete Roman cavalry fort in Britain.

8 The Editor would welcome feedback on the identity of this location.

9 Five Lane Ends, grid reference NGR NY951,745, where the road from Chollerton meets the A68.

[Source: Scottish Borders Archives & Local History Service SBA/657/26, Dr J S Muir of Selkirk, medical practitioner, journal for 1923]

27 May 1923 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk

A fine clear sunny morning which seemed to promise a fine day but in the afternoon the N.E. wind brought up mist + drizzle + blotted out the distant views. I wrote the Cremation Sec.1, Fanny Mackenzie2, Rabagliati3, Ivor Roberton4 (who had written one when sending Agnes Logan’s book about Aunt Maria5). Then with some sandwiches I walked 3 miles along the Carlisle road + had a look at the Wall + strolled south over a moor getting back at 5 for tea.6 There was a crowd of motorists + motor cyclists.7 Had a good dinner + read Dorothy Foster8 + Mothersole’s Roman Wall.9

1 On 2 May 1923 Dr Muir had noted that he had “Got prospectus of Cremation Society in Glasgow.”, see 2 May 1923 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk.

2 Frances Gordon Ord ‘Fanny’ Mackenzie née Rennie (1864-1948), daughter of the Reverend James Rennie and Catherine Stewart Rennie née Muir, thus Dr Muir’s niece.

3 Andrea Carlo Francisco Rabagliati (1843-1930), M.D., F.R.C.S.E., medical practitioner and dietician, author of ‘Air, Food and Exercises; An Essay on the Predisposing Causes of Disease”, 3rd Edition, 1914. Rabagliati was a near contemporary and long-time friend of Dr Muir.

4 Assume the Reverend Ivor Johnstone Roberton (1865-1948), M.A., studied at the University and New College, Edinburgh, ordained at Ratho, 1891, translated to Ladhope, Galashiels, 1898 and at St Giles in the Fields and Bloomsbury St George, London from 1911. His brother was Alexander Logan Roberton which strongly suggests a family connection somewhere, almost certainly through the Greig family – Roberton’s mother was a Greig as was Agnes Logan’s (see footnote 5) [sources include: Ecclegen: Ewing – List of Ministers: R].

5 The book is so far unidentified but assume Agnes McIver Logan (about 1848-1928), daughter of Alexander Stuart Logan (1810-1862), advocate and Sheriff of Forfarshire and Agnes Logan née Greig (about 1813-1891), thus Dr Muir’s cousin.

6 It looks as if Dr Muir walked towards Carrawburgh along the section of the Carlisle (military) road from Chollerford which passes north of Chesters and is rich with evidence of the Roman Wall, however his route southwards and back to Chollerford is not obvious.

7 The Roman Wall attracted large numbers of visitors from its rediscovery onwards.

8 Perhaps ‘Dorothy Foster’ by Walter Besant, London, Chatto and Windus, 1884.

9 Hadrian’s Wall was a book-length illustrated archaeological travelogue by Jessie Mothersole (1874–1958), artist and archaeological author, published in 1922.

[Source: Scottish Borders Archives & Local History Service SBA/657/26, Dr J S Muir of Selkirk, medical practitioner, journal for 1923]

26 May 1923 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk

Another showery day with N.N.E. wind but no such heavy falls as yesterday. I waited a bit + then started along the Newcastle road, the old road with its ups + downs.1 I went about 7½ miles + then turned to Corbridge + back by Bridgend + Simonburn2 returning by a little road with gates on it + came out on Wade’s Road above Walwick.3 Had a read at the Scotsman in the drawing room after dinner + got to bed at 10.30. 28.75 [miles].

1 Dr Muir was staying at Chollerford on the River North Tyne, see his disry for 25 May 2023..

2 Dr Muir evidently headed out on the south side of the River Tyne before crossing to Corbridge, NY989,644 and returning on the north side of the river to reach Simonburn, NY872,736.

3 The best guess is probably the road that runs southwards directly from Simonburn through NY876,726 before hitting General Wade’s Military Road opposite Walwick Fell, then turing eastwards again to hit Walwick itself en route for Chollerford and dinner.

[Source: Scottish Borders Archives & Local History Service SBA/657/26, Dr J S Muir of Selkirk, medical practitioner, journal for 1923]

25 May 1923 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk

Had a splendid night’s sleep. Breakfasted 8.30. It was a bright morning but during the day there were heavy showers + some peals of thunder. In the forenoon I cycled to Hexham1 by the road on the left bank of the Tyne passing Wall + Alcomb [sic].2 The Tyne at Hexham is a fine river. Saw the Cathedral.3 Got 2 illustrated papers + returned by Warden + Chesters.4 Before starting I walked to Chesters + saw the museum.5 After lunch I cycled to Errington (by mistake) + struck Watling Street which I followed to 5 Lane + from there I went about 2 miles on the Stamfordham road : turned north to Hallington + on till I struck the Rothbury road + back to 5 Lane + Chollerton.6 I was lucky to get into a shed at Errington during a [word deleted] thunder plump of hail + rain.7 It was a delightful run but very up + down. Altogether I put in 20 miles. Had a very good dinner + a tankard of ale!

1 Hexham, grid reference NGR NY936,642.

2 Wall, NY917,690 and Acomb, NY929,664.

3 Hexham Abbey.

4 Warden, High Warden and Nether Warden, area of NY913,670, on the opposite side of the River North Tyne from Acomb, and Chesters, NY910,703.

5 Chesters museum, now known as the Clayton Museum at Cilurnum or Cilurvum was a fort on Hadrian’s Wall mentioned in the Notitia Dignitatum. It is now identified with the fort found at Chesters near the village of Walwick, Northumberland, was commissioned in 1895 and opened in 1903. Grade II* Listed, it was designed by Richard Norman Shaw and displays part of John Clayton’s collection of Roman finds.

6 Dr Muir took an anti-clockwise loop east of Chollerford via Errington, NY959,716, Dere Street (not Watling Street!) through NY960,735, Five Lane Ends, NY951,745, towards Stamfordham, NZ080,721, Hallington, NY985,759, the Rothbury road (the B6342) through NY975,784 and Chollerton, NY933,721.

7 A heavy downpour of rain, a deluge, “the heavy shower that often succeeds a clap of thunder” [Source: Dictionar o the Scots Leid].

1 Helen.

1 Nancy.

1 Jack.

1 Agnes Mackintosh née Watson, formerly Harper (1859-1946), of Elm Park, Selkirk.

[Source: Scottish Borders Archives & Local History Service SBA/657/26, Dr J S Muir of Selkirk, medical practitioner, journal for 1923]

24 May 1923 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk

… 1.15 this morning1 before I got to bed. Rose at 6 + breakfasted at 7. It was a perfect morning : [word deleted] sent my box to Hawick with the case for the 8.42. Left at 8. Went via Horn’s Hole [sic] to the Newcastle road : Bonchester Bridge, Note o the Gate + Saughtree2 + down to Wark, Barrasford + Chollerton. Took my lunch at a bridge that crosses the Tyne to a town called Gowanburn3 between Kielder + Plashetts 36½ miles. Stopped at Wark for a W. + S. + got to Chollerford at 5.10 rather tired.4 Had tea + hot bath + dined at 7.50. Wrote Bryson5 + Helen6 + a P.C. [post card] to David7 [?]. Total distance 63.9.

1 This entry continues directly from Dr Muir’s diary entry for the day before.

2 The Editor once cycled, as Dr Muir records doing here, from the River Teviot to Barrasford via Note o’ the Gate and Kielder and, as well as the distance involved, it is a relentless series of climbs from 99 metres at Hawick through 373 metres in Wauchope Forest and a final ascent to 346 metres beyond Singdean.

3 There is a footbridge shown crossing the North Tyne in the area of kilometre square NY64,91 (precise locations are difficult because the Kielder Reservoir lies across the old route of the North Tyne at this point) but the footbridge itself appears to be that visible as F.B. on Ordnance Survey six inch Northumberland Sheet nLIV, published 1924, quite near milepost 32 on the North British Railway Border Counties Section.

4 This is by no means the first time Dr Muir has combined whisky and cycling, on one occasion making matters worse by not eating “Had a whisky & soda at Bridgend & got home very tired at 6.30.” which he regretted the next day noting “The whisky & soda at Bridgend was a mistake. I had too little food having eaten nothing after breakfast at Moffat till I got home but a single biscuit at Borland.” [Dr Muir’s diary entries for 9 and 10 September 1915].

5 Perhaps Walter Bryson (1872-1941), motor car hirer at Selkirk or conceivably Mungo Bryson (about 1869-1941), M.B., C.M., medical practitioner, at Thornhill, Morton, Dumfriesshire whose roles included Medical Officer for Upper Nithsdale Combination Poorhouse, Medical Officer for the Scottish Education Department and Secretary of the Local Medical and Panel Committee of Dumfriesshire.

6 Helen Frances ‘Mousey’ Muir (1880-1963), Dr Muir’s third daughter and sometime housekeeper.

7 David Charteris ‘Dav.’ Graham (1889-1963), M.B., Ch.B., medical practitioner and Dr Muir’s business partner.

1 Agnes Mackintosh née Watson, formerly Harper (1859-1946), of Elm Park, Selkirk.

[Source: Scottish Borders Archives & Local History Service SBA/657/26, Dr J S Muir of Selkirk, medical practitioner, journal for 1923]

23 May 1923 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk

A showery day. Walked about the town + got everybody seen that needed. Met Mrs [illegible]1 who came to lunch + waited till Mrs Tom Anderson2 called to take her to Shaws. Cycled to Hospital + Shawpark. Was busy getting my preparations made for leaving home. It was late at night before I began my actual packing3 and it was [continued as entry for 24 May 1923].

1 Joan Anderson (see footnote 2) was recorded in the 1921 Census and the 1923 Valuation Roll but in neither of those sources is there anyone with a name that remotely corresponds to that of the woman who had lunch at Dr Muir’s and a lift home to Kirkhope.

2 Joan Scott Anderson née Shaw (about 1857-1936), widow of Thomas Scott Anderson (1852-1919) of Shaws, and daughter of Thomas Shaw, Wooriwyrite, Australia and Catherine Shaw née McLaughlin.

3 Dr Muir was off travelling the next day.

[Source: Scottish Borders Archives & Local History Service SBA/657/26, Dr J S Muir of Selkirk, medical practitioner, journal for 1923]

22 May 1923 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk

My dyspepsia very bad last night + all morning but the cycle run put me right

Wind back to E, dry but dull + cold. Gave Chlor[oform] for Dav. to a Mrs Anderson, Backrow1 for curetting. Then cycled to Green Terrace, Forest Terrace, Mill Street, Dunsdale Cottages, Hospital + Shawpark. Jean2 + Nurse Campbell3 who nursed Geo. Roberts4 + at Philip5 + Ashiestiel came for the day this being Empire Day. Jean got a car to meet them at Gala + came round by Rink + Yair. They left by the last train. I cycled in the afternoon to Ladhope, Yarrow Hall + Henderland.6 Saw 11 Char-a-bancs + numerous cars +c in Yarrow. Jas. Mitchell much better. Got some tea.

1 Mrs Anderson is as yet unidentified.

2 Jane Henderson Logan ‘Jean’ Pike née Muir (1877-1941), Dr Muir’s widowed eldest daughter, living and working in Newington, Edinburgh.

3 Nurse Campbell is as yet unidentified.

4 Assume George Roberts (about 1842-1910), who had died 19 May 1910 at Dandswall, Selkirk, aged 68.

5 The abbreviation is unclear so this could be Philiphaugh, Philipburn or perhaps another location.

6 Henderland, Megget, north of St Mary’s Loch, grid reference NGR NT232,233, where Dr Muir had been attending the Mitchell family, James in particular, since late 1921.

[Source: Scottish Borders Archives & Local History Service SBA/657/26, Dr J S Muir of Selkirk, medical practitioner, journal for 1923]