17 July 1919 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk

Still dry + warm S.W. Macdonald’s sisters left today, one of them to visit Sanderson, Gala. Found my back tyre down + couldn’t inflate it. Took it to the repair place + they found the rubber tube in the valve rather long + put it right. Cycled to New Abbey + Kirkbean1 and turned there to a little place on the shore Carsethorn where I ate some excellent sandwiches Kate [Macdonald] had given me + a glass of beer at a pub2. Got back at 3 having done 27.1 miles. Some thoughts of climbing Criffel but it would have taken too long + because there was a mist cap all day. Kate took me to see her garden, which is quite separate from the house + then we went to tea with the Misses Maxwell of [illegible] at [blank space]. Mrs Gillespie + one of her daughters + 2 Misses [blank space] who are at the head of the girls’ hostel were there. There is a lovely garden with splendid roses. One of the Maxwell girls has been at Kalimpong where David’s father is3. We walked back by Nithside.

1 New Abbey, grid reference NGR NX961,662 and Kirkbean, NX977,590

2 Carsethorn, NX993,598

3 Kalimpong is city in West Bengal, India. David Graham, Dr Muir’s co-partner was born there, son of Katherine Graham née McConachie (d.1919) and the Reverend Dr John Anderson Graham (1861-1942), founder of Dr Graham’s Homes, Kalimpong and Moderator of the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland in 1931 – for more information see footnote to Dr Muir’s diary 20 May 1919

[Source: Scottish Borders Archives & Local History Service SBA/657/22, Dr J S Muir of Selkirk, medical practitioner, journal for 1919]

16 July 1919 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk

What with a glass of beer at N Galloway, a W & S [whisky and soda] at Crocketford + two after reaching Macdonald’s1 I had a very stiff back this morning. However I had a good sleep, a nice warm bath + felt alright after breakfast. Macdonald took me to his club (D&G2) + I had to get a new tube in my rear tyre. Then I cycled away via Lochar Bridge3 + Amisfield4 to Shieldhill Station5 + over the Tinwald Downs + climbed the highest (818)6 from which I had the most magnificent view from Criffel7 to Kells [?] + Leadhills, Inner…[?], Moffat Hills, Ettrick feus, Cumberland Hills + Solway Firth again. Got back before 3 + changed + went with Kate Macdonald + her 2 sisters in law + a Mrs Simmons8 (widow of a former partner of Macdonald’s) to tea with Sir Matt + Lady Wallace at Terregles Town9. Came back by rail from Maxwelltown10 . In the evening 2 Miss Gillespies (daughters of a deceased minister of Kirkgunzeon) came in [illegible] some music11. Lady Matthew came from the Rox [?] district + knew the Olivers, Lochside + the Boyds, Cherrytrees12.

1 James C R Macdonald, see entry for 15th July 1919

2 Almost certainly the Dumfries and Galloway Golf Club

3 Assume Locharbriggs, grid reference NGR NX993,802 Dumfriesshire Sheet XLIX.NE, published 1900 https://maps.nls.uk/view/75503111/

4 Amisfield NY001,829

5 Shieldhill Station, NY029851 Dumfriesshire Sheet XLII.SW, published 1900 https://maps.nls.uk/view/75510466/

6 Assume Hightown Hill, NY036,835, at 250 metres the correct height and with a trig point

7 Criffel, NX956,618; unidentified; Leadhills, NS885,155 and unidentified

8 Mrs Mary Symons née Baxter, widow of Henry Symons (1864-1906), solicitor and sometime partner of James Macdonald in Symons & Macdonald, W.S., 84 Irish Street, Dumfries; Mary was living, 1918, at Christophers, English Street, Dumfries [1918 Valuation Roll]

9 Sir Matthew Gemmill Wallace (d.1940) of Terregles-town, Terregles, had married Agnes Johnston of Primside, Morebattle, in 1892 at Primside

10 The G.N.S.W.R. Castle Douglas Branch ran through Maxwelltown Station only short distance ESE of Terregles-town see Ordance Survey 6″ Kirkcudbrightshire Sheet XXIX.NE, published 1896 https://maps.nls.uk/view/75633924/

11 The Reverend James Ewer Gillespie (1840-1918), Church of Scotland Minister, of the Manse, Kirkgunzeon, Kirkcudbright, had two unmarried daughters, Elizabeth Hyslop and Mary Charlotte, living at home in the 1911 census

12 The Olivers of Lochside, Morebattle and the Boyds of Cherrytrees, Town Yetholm who were relatives (though latterly estranged) of the Brack Boyds of Faldonside, close friends of Dr Muir; Lochside has a place in Sir Walter Scott’s ‘Guy Mannering’

[Source: Scottish Borders Archives & Local History Service SBA/657/22, Dr J S Muir of Selkirk, medical practitioner, journal for 1919]

15 July 1919 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk

Said Adieu to Glenluce + the Commercial Hotel where I have been very comfortable. The bill came to £7 6 9 with 3/- to the maid + 2 /- to the cooks1. left by 9.59 for Newton Stewart sending my box [?]valise and kitbag to Dumfries. It was a perfect day with a W. wind which suited me. Had a lovely run to N Galloway. The rugged hills looked their best and the purple of the Bell Heather marvellous. Parts of the road were fearfully rough. Stopped at the Dee + had a smoke under the bridge2. After Clatteringshaws3 the road was very rough almost to N Galloway where I had a glass of beer, biscuits + cheese. A bit after Balmaclellan4 my back tyre got soft + about a mile + half [sic] from Corsock5 collapsed. I went to a farm house + mended two holes but it was no good so I walked to Corsock where a blacksmith imagined he could put it right + stuck on another patch which only held about 3 miles + I rode on the rim to Crocketford6 where I ‘phoned Macdonald7 + got him to send a motor. It was most sickening + spoiled my run. It was nearly 8 when I reached Macdonald’s. Got a merry welcome + dinner. Two of McD’s sisters were there, one of whom sang very nicely. My run was about 35 [miles] + the motor cost 16/- [shillings].

1 Dr Muir has given a tip of about 3.4% to the, presumably female, staff at the Commercial Hotel

2 Dr Muir stopped at the Dee for a smoke but presumably, given his route, under the Threave Bridge, grid reference NGR NX737,603, rather than the Old Bridge of Dee which is no distance but would have constituted a diversion, see Ordnance Survey 6 inch Kirkcudbrightshire Sheet XLII.SE, published 1910 https://maps.nls.uk/view/75634377/

3 Clatteringshaws, grid reference NGR NX551,762

4 Balmaclellan, NX653,791

5 Corsock, NX758,764

6 Crocketford or Ninemile Bar, NX831,728

7 James C R Macdonald, a friend of Dr Muir, married to Catherine Macdonald and living at 1 Newall Terrace, Dumfries, and a Writer to the Signet of Symons & Macdonald, 84 Irish Street, Dumfries

[Source: Scottish Borders Archives & Local History Service SBA/657/22, Dr J S Muir of Selkirk, medical practitioner, journal for 1919]

14 July 1919 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk

Glenluce

Lovely morning + clearer than it has been all my stay. Paid Scotsman + for books I had from the Library. Then, taking the Scotsman, I walked out the road by Barlockhart to Sinniness1 where I got a seat behind a rock + sat for more than an hour reading + smoking. I saw the W end of the Isle on Man but the most of it was cloud capped. I couldn’t distinguish the Irish Coast. About 2 it got darker + threatened rain so I came down to Stair Haven2 + home that way to a tea which I enjoyed my indigestion having gone. Completed my packing. Dined at 7.30. It doesn’t look well for tomorrow.

1 Barlockhart (area); the road goes through grid reference NGR 212,554 and presumably Castle Sinniness, NX215,531 but possibly Laigh Sinniness further south, NX216,524

2 Stairhaven, NX209,536

[Source: Scottish Borders Archives & Local History Service SBA/657/22, Dr J S Muir of Selkirk, medical practitioner, journal for 1919]

13 July 1919 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk

The strong N.W. gale continued + there were some drizzling showers. Did not breakfast till after 9. Took a short run to Altacry, Old Mochrum Place, Craighlaw + home by main road1. Very pretty up Alticry Burn. Discovered that Mochrum belongs to the Marquess of Bute + not as I thought Sir H Maxwell2. Saw several shags along the shore + a crowd of gulls – mostly Blackheaded – feeding on something that was being churned up by the waves. Went to evening service in the U.F. Church. Very few there. Took a stroll after up the road that runs past the Bowling Green3. The wind had rather fallen + it was rather pleasant. Commenced to do my re-packing. Had high tea at 4.30 + took nothing after. My run today was 25.15 [miles].

1 Alticry Burn, which crosses the coast road at grid reference NGR NX272,497, Old Place of Mochrum, NX307,540 and Craighlaw, NX307,612; Dr Muir appears to have made the trip anti-clockwise and joined what is now the A75 just north of Craighlaw

2 The Editor assumes that Dr Muir is referring to Sir Herbert Eustace Maxwell, 7th Baronet (1845-1937), PC, JP, DL, FRS, Scottish author, antiquarian, horticulturalist and Conservative M.P.

3 The bowling green is on the south side of the Lady Burn, off Bankfield Road on the south side of Glenluce, and visible on the 25 inch Ordnance Survey Wigtownshire Sheet XIX.5, published 1908 https://maps.nls.uk/view/82908480/

[Source: Scottish Borders Archives & Local History Service SBA/657/22, Dr J S Muir of Selkirk, medical practitioner, journal for 1919]

12 July 1919 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk

There was some rain this morning but it passed off + the day was fine but for a cold N.W. gale. I had a most ? night with indigestion + felt quite seedy all day. I lay about + read + wrote May1 + Guy2 + sent the petrol rebate return back to Hawick in the calculation of which I had made a mistake. Got letter from Jean [Muir] (who is home for a couple of days) + a P.C. [post card] from Helen [Muir] who goes to St Abbs today. I took a very small breakfast (although they gave me lovely sea trout) + a little tea at 4. + was able to take some dinner. Took a walk down the R. Luce + read the Scotsman. William Yellowlees (brother of the Sawmiller), who is a male nurse attending a patient at [? Dumfries], happened to call at the Hotel + hearing I was here came up + saw me + had a long crack3.

1 Identity uncertain but perhaps Margaret Graham ‘May’ Lang (1861-1968) or Marion Vassie ‘May’ Lindsay (1886-) of Whitehope, Yarrow, both of whom corresponded with Dr Muir from time to time according to his diaries

2 Gavin Struthers ‘Guy’ Muir (1846-1927), Dr Muir’s brother

3 Dr Muir is almost certainly referring to William Yellowlees, born 27 July 1863 at Philihaugh Sawmill, Selkirk, a son of Robert Yellowlees, wood merchant, and Isabella Yellowlees née Fairbairn. His parents were married 1850 at Earlston. He is described in the 1911 Census as a “mental nurse”, aged 47 and living in Paisley. The identity of the brother referred to is uncertain but may be Alexander, born about 1851, who appears to have carried on their father’s timber business

[Source: Scottish Borders Archives & Local History Service SBA/657/22, Dr J S Muir of Selkirk, medical practitioner, journal for 1919]

11 July 1919 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk

The first rain since I came here (except the shower I got at Carsewell on the 3rd). It rained pretty steadily till 12 + there was nothing but a slight drizzle after that. I left between about one + went rapidly to Stranraer. Saw a pale pink Lychnis among a lot of ordinary red ones1. Took my bike to a repair shop + left it to get the speed wire mended. Strolled down to the shore + read the Scotsman. Bought some cakes + ate them. Left at 4.30 came back by Glenluce New Luce, rather a pretty glen going up2. Feeling some indigestion at night + took a nip of whisky. A man came in for tea who turned out to be a brother in law of Walt. Inglis who, he tells me, is holidaying in Dailly3.

1 Assume Lychnis viscaria or Sticky Catchfly, described today as a “local priority species” by the South West Scotland Environmental Information Centre (SWSEIC)

2 If Dr Muir has not cycled up and back the same way (and he has not phrased it like that) then presumably he went up via Braid Fell and down the Main Water of Luce or he simply made a shortish loop taking in Auchmantle on the way up to New Luce, and Galdenoch coming down, on his way home

3 Dailly, South Ayrshire, ENE of Girvan

[Source: Scottish Borders Archives & Local History Service SBA/657/22, Dr J S Muir of Selkirk, medical practitioner, journal for 1919]

10 July 1919 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk

Left at 6.45 + ran to Newton Stewart where I had breakfast at the Crown1. Filled up Thermos with tea2. Bought some lunch + a pocket handkerchief + went on to Bargrennan + Loch Trool. It was a fine day with a cool N.W. wind of moderate strength. It’s 3 miles from the Bargrennan Road to the lodge gate + I went about half a mile further to a point where I got a most lovely view of the whole Loch3. The show of Bell Heather was magnificent. Saw a small adder in the road. Came back to Bargrennan + took the road to Barrhill which I found pretty steep + rough. Didn’t go into Barrhill but turned back by the Snap road4. It is a much better road than the other. Took my lunch at the Pollgowan Burn5 + after that to my disquiet the wire of the speed gear broke + I had to depend entirely on the mid gear. Luckily the wind was in my favour. Came as far as Bladnoch + turned off where Jack + I got the thunder plump last September6. That road bought me via Gass to Glenluce 12 miles7. Saw white + yellow water lillies away out on the moor. The run was 66 miles. Got back at 6.36 + a hot bath + good dinner.

1 The Crown Hotel, Queen Street, Newton Stewart still exists

2 The vacuum flask was invented by James Dewar FRS FRSE (1842-1923), Scottish chemist and physicist, though it was most widely exploited by the German Thermos company and Sir James did not benefit financially from his idea

3 The point at which Dr Muir appears to have taken the view is approximate grid reference NGR NX412,802

4 The Snap Inn, Knowe, is at grid reference NGR NX313,713 and is shown on Ordnance Survey 6 inch Wigtownshire Sheet VIII.2, published 1895

5 Pollgowan Burn crosses the road at grid reference NGR NX259,792 so Dr Muir must have lunched in the Loch Duisk and Knockycoid area

6 Dr Muir and his son-in-law John ‘Jack’ Roberts junior were caught out on 27 September 1918 as they cycled from Newton Stewart to Girvan via the Snap: “… we started across a wild moorland road guarded by an iron gate & were caught in the most violent storm of wind & rain which soaked us from our knees downwards …”

7 Dr Muir’s route back appears to have followed the B7027 in a SSE direction as far as Glassnock, NX333,695 (not Bladnoch, though at that point he would have crossed the river of that name) and then run in a generally south west direction via Gass Farm, NX249,640, down into the centre of Glenluce

[Source: Scottish Borders Archives & Local History Service SBA/657/22, Dr J S Muir of Selkirk, medical practitioner, journal for 1919]

9 July 1919 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk

Strong N.W.W. [sic] wind dry. Sunny morning, dull after. Letter from H [Helen Muir]. Wrote her. Left after 10 + cycled via Kildrochet to Soulseat Loch and Castle Kennedy1. The latter is the finest demesne I have ever seen. The fine old castle stands on a height between the White & Black Lochs. The grounds are magnificent + the Earl of Stair’s modern house The Inch very fine2. Splendid display of water lillies [sic] yellow, white + red. Got back at 4 + had tea + a couple of eggs. Called on Dr Matthews but again he was out.

1 Kildrochet, grid reference NGR NX079,562, Soulseat Loch, NX100,589 and Castle Kennedy, centred around NX109,613

2 The Inch (Gaelic innis) refers to Inch Island [sic] in the White Loch and also to the church to its west, while the ‘modern’ Lochinch Castle is the mid-19th century Scottish Baronial style house to the north of the White Loch – see Ordnance Survey 6″ Wigtownshire Sheet XII.SW, published 1896 https://maps.nls.uk/view/75679548/

[Source: Scottish Borders Archives & Local History Service SBA/657/22, Dr J S Muir of Selkirk, medical practitioner, journal for 1919]

8 July 1919 diary of Dr John Stewart Muir (1845-1938) of Selkirk

Had a good sound sleep. Breakfasted 8.30. Wrote P.C. [postcard] to Helen [Muir] + David [Graham] + letter to McDonald from whom + D. I had letters. Waited till the Scotsman came + started after 10. Cycled to [? Ardenveoch] + on to Mochrum by a disused but fairly rideable Road. Old Place of Mochrum is very fine. The road from there runs along [? loch]. The flies were awfully troublesome from Mochrum village. Went to Monreith + Port William where I had a most excellent tea. Fine run back along the coast with a head wind = 33.7.

[Source: Scottish Borders Archives & Local History Service SBA/657/22, Dr J S Muir of Selkirk, medical practitioner, journal for 1919]